“Given the nature of our products, a statutory framework is not only necessary, it is a boon”.  This is an excerpt of the conclusions with which Marc Antoine Jamet, President of Cosmetic Valley, introduced the 9th Congrès Parfums & Cosmetiques (Perfumes & Cosmetics Congress) dedicated to statutory issues and organized in Chartres by the competitiveness cluster.  However, he goes on to say, “be careful to avoid the excesses that would kill innovation. We have a common denominator, not the smallest, but the best: defending the values of the label, ‘Made in France’”.

The issue described by Mr. Jamet is clear – a statutory framework  is an advantage that should not hinder overall progress.  “Our growth rate is increasing strongly, 10 billion in exports (a progression of 10% according to the customs department), new markets: + 24% in South America, + 20% in the Far East, + 11% in Russia!  The cosmetics industry is the second  biggest exporter within the French economy. Each year, exports in the perfume-cosmetics sector represent the equivalent of 400 TGVs or 150 Airbuses”.

A dynamic and innovative market, certainly, but concerned about statutory timelines at the French, European and international levels. And  Mr. Jamet goes on to point out:

• the 2012 Law on social security financing, which envisages a tax on the industry to fund cosmetic-vigilance;

• the ever-increasing demands of the SFDA in order to enter the Chinese market;

• REACH, the great silent revolution that is sweeping the world of cosmetics;

• The project for the regulation of parabens proposed during the Ad Hoc Working Party. If adopted, it only allows six months for compliance;

• Nanos;

• Testing on animals – Europe is planning a total ban in 2013.

These were the many subjects that keenly interested the 400 listeners who were present, consisting mainly of those in charge of regulatory issues and R&D among the leading brands of the French cosmetics industry.  They were clearly interested in all the aspects of the European regulations applicable from July 2013, and to the presentations of the steps that LVMH, L’Occitane, Yves Rocher and Firmenich have already taken.

With this conference organized in partnership with Chartres Metropole, Cosmetic Valley marks an important moment of dialogue and progress between the “controllers” – the regulatory bodies (AFSSAPS, FEBEA, COLIPA, AFNOR) –  and the “controlled”, the big names of the industry.

The source of 85% of the production of perfumes and cosmetics sold worldwide, it is currently a candidate for recognition by the State as a competitiveness cluster that will represent French industry worldwide. An ambition driven by the desire to affirm the strength of a sector that is innovative, one that creates employment and which could transform the Congrès de Chartres into a “global” rallying point, rather like a Davos of international cosmetics.

10e and next edition  : 28 & 29 november 2012,  Chartres

Kristel Milet

www.congres-parfumscosmetiques.com