The dynamic efforts of this major exhibition of the cosmetics industry, which was held in Bologna from the 15 to 19 April were largely disrupted by the volcanic ash cloud: key statistics show that 1,700 meetings were cancelled, and 400 exhibitors were unable to make the trip!  In addition, the increase of +4.88% in the number of visitors was not sufficient to cover the decline in the attendance rate of 2009 (-7.5%).  The challenge of the next edition will therefore consist of reasserting its leadership (77% of Italian visitors on the counter this year – or +6% as compared to 2009).

Horst M. Rechelbacher - founder of Aveda and Intelligent Nutrients

From the viewpoint of exhibitors & events – what can one retain from this 43rd edition?
Firstly, we remarked the inauguration of a new ‘Green-volution’ space fully dedicated to ‘green’ beauty, confirming the enthusiasm for this segment, showing the fastest growth in Italy [+4.9% in 2009 vs. +0.8% in the global market, 3.7% MS / Source: Unipro].
The guest of honour at the fair, Horst M. Rechelbacher – founder of Aveda and Intelligent Nutrients – conducted several “shock treatment” conferences with a view to making the chemical cosmetics industry accountable for the hazards it represents for human health (i.e. cancers and neurodegenerative diseases). He also stressed the growing importance of the ‘Culturally Creative’, this segment of shrewd and well-informed consumers, who pay attention to the composition of cosmetic products. According to him, the future of beauty belongs to medical actors, with the emergence of “Healing products that make you feel well and look good”!
Among our favourite “green” products, a note of excellence for the Danish brand Unique, which has adopted the motto: “Nothing is lost, everything is transformed” as its own, by retrieving the whey that is usually discarded by food producers, to make it the star ingredient of its hair and body treatments … even as we wait for its facial products in 2011.
The new collection, ‘Bio-etic’ from Experience – an Italian Spa brand created in 2002 – also left a lasting impression because of its striking visual identity and packing derived from the Naya concept – no glue, no shim, no instruction leaflet, but with an integrated flash code to obtain more information on the products!
The ‘e-ndorphin’ collection is also one to keep track of, based on phyto-endorphins with the slogan: “Supply your daily dose of happiness to your skin”.
In packaging, star-billing was given to airless packaging – proving the vitality of this segment, which is showing the highest growth-rate in cosmetic containers and leads one to justifiably believe that it will become the industry standard in the future.  In fact, if this technology has become THE packaging choice for organic brands, protecting the compositions from oxidation, and limiting the use of preservatives, it also guarantees the near total restitution of the product, between 95% and 98%! As far as suppliers are concerned, Lablabo, inventor of pouch dispensers, launches Brioline, a container reduced to 7 components in all, with no cap, for a lower carbon footprint!
Besides this green tide, another approach stands out, to counter the excessive standardization of the market. Some brands are heading towards customization, ranging from semi-customization to co-creation. Among those identified along the alleys, Skinc (Singapore) – which has been in the Asian market now for two and a half years – offers a system of encapsulated serums associated with mini-devices – LED colour therapy and low frequency current, so that active ingredients penetrate the dermis more profoundly. Reviderm (Germany) goes a step further with its ‘Individual Serum’, prepared after a diagnosis lasting 1:30hr with a ‘Beauty therapist’, based on an in-depth questionnaire on one’s lifestyle and daily beauty routine (90 questions for women, 65 for men) followed by a skin analysis device [350 € for 10ml / 15 days of production].
Another remarkable demonstration was the “L’Unique, Laboratoire du Parfum” workshop – orchestrated by Christine Nagel (Fragrance Resources) and Elie Papiernik (Centdegrés) – with, as end result, your own customized perfume – where your opinion is taken into account during all the stages of the process – right from its composition by a ‘Nose’ on the basis of 5 harmonies, to its design.

Finally, among emerging initiatives that stand out we can cite:
• Biofarm Italia, which offers a new format in nutritional supplements, with its ‘edible’ films targeting wellbeing – stress, sleep, jet lag … [launched in 2009 in Italy and Spain]. When will we see them in cosmetics?
• Lameplast Group: the specialist in mono-dose packaging associated with the launch of Bioderma’s Matricium, with a system that ensures a sterile environment. Also appreciated was the very hygienic Easysnap format, which distributes the entire product with just one press!
• Hialurox Anti-Aging Laser System, CORPORA: virtual cool laser mesotherapy, following the application of a gel, has been a runaway success in Spain for two years and is available also in anti-cellulite form for the body!
• After the Décalco eye-patches from Color on Professional, we find ‘EyeMajic’,  “the world’s quickest and easiest eye-shadow” that can be applied in 5 seconds, in powder form, tested and approved live! [Reminder: Express Color has been available at Sephora since February 2009]

Pascale Brousse