Beyond Beauty Paris 2009, a highly concentrated trade event

The figures say it all: 19,000 unique visitors over the four-day period of the trade show, or an increase of 4% compared to last year, and a proportion of foreign visitors equaling approximately 28%.
The current crisis did not have too much impact on the 7th edition of the Beyond Beauty Paris Exhibition, and its taking place inside Paris easily ensured the attendance, and re-attendance, of many professionals more than ever in search of new products, innovations, exchanges of information and trends. This space was of course more concentrated, but the exhibitors of the three trade shows –  Creative, Cosmeeting and European Spa Exhibition – could only be delighted by the quality and quantity of contacts they made. The European Spa Summit conferences and the conference program set up by BBP/BBMag both filled the house, so that everybody gained knowledge, opened windows onto elsewhere and the future and above all, shared their ques-tionings and their certitudes. The BBMag team toured the aisles and brought back a few ideas to keep up with, snatched from BB Lab, the Zoomers area and their awards, in an omnipresent organic world. The photos capture it all.

08_00_bbpSoaps from the Middle East

Feniqia offers six ranges of soap, made according to the traditional Middle-Eastern process in Lebanon, and with 14 different fragrances of the Middle East (no preservatives and no colorants) for the home or spa. It also offers a new item: available in a small jar, the black soap paste scented with amber is convenient for travel. So is the organically grown Oliviers du Liban for Beesline Pro (Laboratoires Natural SARL) products, which is also launching a loofah soaked in pure olive-oil soap, very practical for a natural, gentle shower, and offering natural scrubs (with red sugar, ginger and honey). Finally, thanks to Ensa laboratories, Derm’Alep , the hypoallergenic dermocosmetics soap with olive oil and bay laurel (antifungal and antiseptic, sold in pharmacies), now exists as a clear golden liquid.

News gleaned from the aisles

Yasmina Zerroug, founder of Charme d’Orient , is making an advance announcement of the November launch of her Berber fig-seed oil, a natural anti-wrinkle product and veritable nectar concentrate for the face and hair, and her black soap gel enriched with argan oil for the shower.  Fleurs de Bach is presenting its professional line of anti-stress face and body care for spas and professional beauty salons, packaged in big pharmaceutical jars (2nd Cosmeeting prize last year for its organic eau de parfums and a prizewinner again this year, cf. BCA). Sothys is offering a new anti-age program with a professional product and also four serums for as many needs of the skin, from fine lines to mature skin, with a “patented complex that boosts the pool of cells in good health. ” Following its massage candles, A World of Oils is launching a complete range of certified, 100% organic makeup, made in Italy, under the brand name Terrabio. Brand founder Luc-André Delacuvellerie pushed his natural concept to the limit: his stand was entirely made of recycled carton! Nuxe , the natural-origin cosmetology brand, combines the technical aspect of its products with spas. The new product: its massage products with delightful names are packed in large sizes.The essential kit for travelers keen on toiletries, imagined by Miss Ferling , includes an antibacterial gel with verbena, soap leaves and organic wipes. The Japanese laboratory Umo has come up with a treatment protocol presented for the first time at the Beyond Beauty trade show and distributed in France by SkinGold: leaving pure 24-carat gold leaves on the face for 90 minutes provides the skin with major benefits. An ultra-fine cold mist is diffused to dissolve the gold by ionization, with the Spa Umo Facial. Gone are traces of underarm perspiration, with the 1-2 Dry pads created three years ago in Holland and distributed in more 10,000 pharmacies and drugstores throughout the world and soon more widely in Europe, notably in France.

The German brand Klapp is presenting its new anti-age product Stri-PeXan Bleu, targeted to 25-45 year-olds, which contains an active substance present in stem cells of the Malus domestica apple that grows in Switzerland. Peelings with apple acids are done in spas and professional beauty salons. Terraké is innovating with its anti-puffiness, smoothing lift cream for the eye and lip contours, which contains precious minerals, and its makeup remover jelly for the eyes and lips with white tea from Fujian. Grant McMurray, of Durban, South Africa, presented his two companies, Soil (first aromatherapy brand to be Ecocert certified in South Africa) and Treemendus , organic products for the body, hair and hands with tea tree. All products are made in Zululand. The renowned eyewear maker-jeweler, Hervé Domar , who has been making fragrances and scented candles since 2007, presented his latest fragrance, Saphir, that combines a note of white truffle note with one of voluptuous lily (created by Drom).

Spa: exhibition newcomers

Kajame is a young brand launched by a brother and sister, Olivier and Séverine Bertrand. “On an ultra-competitive market, we are betting on quality, our formulas are pure: argan oil, apricot seed, shea butter, mango, oil of Berber fig seed and Aloe vera. Our glass jars are made by artisans in Morocco. All our face and body care and shampoos (97 products) are available in professional salons only, ” explains Olivier Bertrand. “We adapt to small businesses that can’t buy large quantities. ” Nelly DeVuyst is developing a line of 55 high-end body and face products for men and women. These are products made in Belgium according to an innovative process, the Diadermic method, making it possible to optimize the organic-certified active ingredients. Nelly DeVuyst, already widely present on the North American market, wants to set up in Europe.

The American brand June Jacobs created the June Jacobs Spa Collection, which offers 47 face, body and hair products distributed in the most prestigious spas. For the first time at the Salon Beyond Beauty Paris, June Jacobs presented the line June Jacobs Citrus, a concentrate of the best citrus fruits. Clé des Champs is the first organic cosmetics line that follows the body through the change of seasons. Called Season Therapy, the face and body treatment protocol differs depending on the season. Agnès Bellulo created a range of products that nourish the body from within, the DietiSpa care: 13 food supplements (in clever bottles) and 6 dermocos-metics patches for wellness, slimming, beauty and vitality.

Development,sustainable version

The trend for all things green that is irrigating all the links in the chain, from ingredients to packaging and including finished products, is spilling largely over into sustainable development. Filled with good practices on this subject, Cosmetic Valley is committing itself more than before to this niche. For proof, on 16 October in Rambouillet, in the presence of Gérard Larcher, president of the senate, and of Chantal Jouanno, French secretary of state for ecology, it will officially sign the charter for a “responsible Cosmetic Valley.” Finalized after two years of work, the charter lays out a certain number of commitments in societal, economic and environmental terms, the respecting of which will enable raw materials companies to obtain, depending on the level, one to several “peonies,” all thanks to declarations, the fourth peony being attributed only after on-site assessment. “With this charter, we are providing new value – made in France, ” says Soline Godet, who is in charge of this project, “with products made that respect the planet.

Hi-tech trend

Presented for the first time in Europe, Tända , has developed a treatment to reduce acne and signs of aging. The Tända Clear or Regenerate uses a blue or red LED light, depending on the treatment. Luxomed is launching needleless acupuncture or Luxopuncture. An infrared beam provides assistance in problems of addiction to smoking, of excess weight, of relaxing, and a recognized lifting effect. Sismo Fitnessrelies on an oscillatory technique, the body reacting according to its position on the apparatus. Recommended for improving circulation, weight problems, and physical therapy. NPM , New Permanent Make-up, a company set up in Israel, presented its needle pen to color lips, eyes and eyebrows in a few minutes… NPM is a high-technology process that ensures hold for a year and a half.

Packs, formulas and new products
Aside from the major work done by Swallowfield on textures (a gel formula for the shower that turns into foam on application, like the shaving gel, the delightful tensing-effect mousse, the self-tan mousse), the British company has developed an original product: a photo has been glued to the back of a clear makeup compact, a transparent gloss die-cast on top.  Simple, but someone had to think of it! HCP itself has also imagined an entire series of new developments, among which the Push and Pull, a double-tip monoblock for the lips, and Megalash, a patented concept that combines plastic and Nylon bristles for a brush with multiple features, lash-to-lash definition and volume.
Strand Cosmetics presented an organic and natural line with a day and night cream, a makeup remover and a serum with four certified organic actives with rather soothing properties (Shea butter, floral water of linden, organic Sensiline, organic oil of kendi, an Indonesian tree from eco-responsible channels), all with a 24-month CAM guarantee. As for natural makeup, it offers three foundation colors, an eco-certified mascara, three shades of gloss with a pretty finish, but above all a new vision of eye shadow, with a cone-shaped applicator. In parallel, the company is pursuing its partnership with Fibroline; after the blush-soaked pads, it is working on soaking skincare powders.
Leoplast , the PLA or polylactic acid specialist, is persisting and is signing a mascara/eyeliner/lip gloss line with the little glass jar being square or cylindrical, and the cap and stem in PLA. This is a material on which the company is working with the University of Turin to offset its major inconvenience (its absence of heat-resistance), with potential results by the end of the year, “but this will no longer be 100% renewable PLA but a compound. ” In parallel, the company is proposing acetate of cellulose, less eco-friendly but that resists heat, postproduction recycled plastic (SAN, ABS, PS or PMMA) to which you have to add 20% virgin material, all certified by the Italian Plastica Seconda Vita (Second Life Plastic) system. Rossow has developed a new surface-active ingredient in charge of replacing SLES and a candelilla wax substitute. Mibelle is continuing to carry out tests on the actives it offers. It has done so for CM-Glucan Granulate, a Bêtaglucan derivative that has existed since 1994, for which it has demonstrated pre- and post-treatment qualities, and also PhytoCell, which is able to reconstruct a stratified epidermis. The company is also working with a laboratory to develop three products with a typically Swiss resonance:  muesli in an anti-age scrub version; pre- or post-surgery treatment cream, and technical features via work notably on stem cells. For the shiatsu concept applied to face care, Tsubo-Oshi (spot-push) is a twist-pen, with a massage tip in thermoplastic that makes it possible to deliver a skincare formula on the acupuncture points around the eye. This pen exists also with a mascara-brush tip adapted to a skincare formula and lash-extension fibers. From Tokiwa again are 3D masks soaked in house formulas – hydrating or relaxing — with a natural lift effect, since the material of this mask resists optimal stretching so that it adapts perfectly to the face.
FS Korea offers compact cubes that open like folded paper. At Alkos , a whipped-cream formula, like a round Italian ice cream, gently nourishes the skin with an effect of freshness and lightness, and the effectiveness of an extremely rich cream… “Ideal for an after-tanning treatment, ” explains Patrick Le Garrec, R & D director of the Alkos Développement group (Inter Cosmétiques, Sagal and Alkos Cosmétiques). Lips’Kit de Livcer is a mini-palette of three bowls for lipstick, gloss, complexion corrector or eyeshadow: very clever for a sales product, a sample to give out or slip into a magazine. The Crazy Sphères from Solabia ? They float in water, and it’s an inclusion technology of fatty particles in aqueous phases, which opens many avenues of development.
Cosmeto-textiles making hprogress

Never has the marriage between cosmetics and textiles been so frequently celebrated as at the trade show. Skin’Up may imagine for its panties and accessories proof that it monitors effectiveness (which decreases from 100% to 20% with 30 maximum washings), and Sveltesse may be developing a fiber intrinsically filled with special properties (bye-bye micro-encapsulation and the problem of washings), but AhRt is committing itself to taking a different path. Its micro-capsules fix onto textile fibers through simple soaking or rinsing in the machine to give them that special property (hydrating, slimming, refreshing).

Zooming fully onto young companies

A first: it’s in using MSM, a form of sulfur that is highly bioavailable, that the British company Oskia built its range of 6 face products (and gelcaps), with 98% natural ingredients or identical to nature and that have been given the job of boosting collagen and elastin production. PrO-care had launched masks that were very interesting due to their concentration in actives (5% hyaluronic acid for the moisturizer, 3% collagen and 2% hyaluronic acid for the anti-age cream, etc) and their pharmaceutical ingredients (textured clear films, and even, for the eye contours, a unidose cotton-swab). The company is offering a more traditional range, with two face creams, including one with an Inca inchi oil, highly rich in Omega 3s and 6s,
an eye contour treatment, a serum and two jars of capsules (anti-age, renewing).
The first bio-active keratin is what Biocyte is offering with Kératine Forte, a box of 40 gelcaps rich in keratin (and including 18 amino acids), from the wool of New Zealand sheep. Hair and nails are thus fortified with an intensive treatment of 2 to 3 boxes. Cho Nature (Cho for carbon, hydrogen and oxygen, the basic elements of life; Nature for the origin of the floral waters, essential oils and other raw materials) is an all-new line from a new French company. Available in four ranges (floral, cream, oil, wellness), or a total of about 20 products, Cho Nature is positioned on the segment of luxury organic cosmetics (between €45 and €75) and is targeting department stores and spas prior to opening its online sales site in October. The technology of supercritical fluids is what Plus Kritik is based on. Plus Kritik is the new brand created by the Spanish lab Idoki . The extraction process, a typical example of green chemistry, makes it possible to get “purer, more active, higher quality ” active ingredients like propolis, which enriches its hair lines (6 shampoos available by hair type) and toiletries (4 shower gels available by skin type).
Founded in 2008, Little Big Bio is continuing to make headway. Though it has increased its capital, it is going to open it by 2010 to “ecobusiness angels, ” says Fouad Makroum, its founder. At the same time, he is adding to his sales teams and welcoming an associate executive in charge of formulation and regulatory affairs. More information on the 2009 trade show and the 2010 edition at www.beyondbeautyparis.com

Report by S. Chabbert, S. Durand and S. Walters

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